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For those in the plastic model variety...

Wittpilot

Wittpilot

Warbird Guru
Finished a few over the past few weeks....

The B-17 was just horrible and I couldn't wait for it to be done, and the other two were great models...but.... the decals sucked....

The two fighters were 1/72 Academy builds.... Like I said, models were great, decals were horrible, and they ripped and came apart before they got on the model!

I'm getting a little better with my techniques...

-witt
 
witt to make a good model it's all in the preperation, you'll need precision cement (Or Cyanacrylate), a set of files, a craft knife with various blades and my number 1 tip.... car body filler or similar, oh and very fine sand paper, can practically eliminate where halves join seam lines... good work though buddy, you tried using a brush to apply the decals, sometimes it's a little less harsh that trying to use your fingers. and while i remember, do you put down a primer coat before paint... if so try to use an airbrush, it eliminates that stroky finish :salute:

all in all nice work, makes me want to buy that Avro Vulcan Kit i've been eyeing up for a long time, then again i'm one of those who will hack a model apart with a craft knife and rebuild, darn OCD:icon_lol:
 
If you know the decals are going to be bad (fall apart), you can often lightly spray them with a clearcoat.

Also (and I can't tell if you did this) decals go on well over gloss paint - it keeps air out from under them and they don't "silver". I always painted the model in gloss (or gloss coated it after it was painted), applied the decals, then sprayed it with a matte clear. That seals off the decals too, so if you weather it further, you can get all rough and scrubb-y and not worry about accidentally tearing or removing a decal.

How many models have you done? These look like a good start, and an excellent basis for some further work like Smoothie is talking about - putty, glue filling (especially with gap filling or accelerated CA). That, or a tube of 3M blue body putty will last you for dozens or hundreds of models.

You can come up with some excellent results with a brush, but an airbrush does make it easier. That said, I did several paints on 1/48 A-10s (Euro One, Std Gray and JAWS desert schemes) with full feathered camo using only a paintbrush, and no one would believe I didn't own an airbrush. So I went out and bought one - I should have done it a lot earlier.

Brian
 
I shall not get on mu anti-IPMS/USA mode, because the modelers in IPMS/USA are fine, it's the politics and judging of the events in IPMS/USA that has got to change. Last year was the first year in over 25 years that I did not renew my membership. It was also the first year since 1990 that I did not complete a plastic model. Lots to say on that issue, mostly financial.

Now as to old decals, Witt, order some Microscale Superfilm, best stuff out there to save old decals. Decals take time too, always use a gloss coat before applying them or they will silver (the clear will look frosty).

Yeah, not to rob the thread, I have won a few Nationals.

Caz
 
Cazzie said:
I shall not get on mu anti-IPMS/USA mode, because the modelers in IPMS/USA are fine, it's the politics and judging of the events in IPMS/USA that has got to change. Last year was the first year in over 25 years that I did not renew my membership. It was also the first year since 1990 that I did not complete a plastic model. Lots to say on that issue, mostly financial.

Now as to old decals, Witt, order some Microscale Superfilm, best stuff out there to save old decals. Decals take time too, always use a gloss coat before applying them or they will silver (the clear will look frosty).

Yeah, not to rob the thread, I have won a few Nationals.

Caz
Click to expand...

I haven't competed since 2001, Caz. I agree about the judging as well. That is the main reason I stopped competing and building. Starting school killed my time as well two years later. I also found myself back then building to compete and not building to enjoy. I do need to build SOMETHING, as I have about 400 kits in the workshop (now train room!) I have not forgotten about calling you. I have just been so damned busy! I'll be in touch shortly.

Don
 
I built a B-17 years ago. Detailed the inside compartments and all. Probably the best job I ever did on detailing. Then I closed it all up never to be seen again except for the pictures I took before putting the halves together. I started a YF-22 a month or so ago. Joined a forum called Large Scale Planes (http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php). They have a work in progress thread. Some of the things these guys do to models is nothing short of amazing. As with Flight Simulator when I first started, I never new there was a large aftermarket business for detailing your model to remarkable levels. I doubt I will ever have the patience to take it that far.
 
Witt, great start. Keep at it. There is real joy in modelling. There are also some pitfalls as well! Like Bushpounder says, one trap is to not build for YOUR own enjoyment. It's very tempting to try and meet "others'" expectations. NOT FUN.

Heh! Heh! Heh! I bet we could really swap some stories. My first IPMS/USA member number was 601 back in 1969(?). Let it laps a few times due to, shall we say, gentlemen's disagreements #$@!?

Haven't held a card since 1995. Was the National Convention vice chair for Atlanta in 1978 and the National Contest chairman for Atlanta in 1993.

Things really began to go downhill with judging with a major rules and qualification change in St. Luis in 1979. Things just haven't been the same since.

Hey Caz, show me yours and I'll show you mine! I've got a few pieces of hardware collecting dust in the attic! :icon_lol:

Seriously, I'd love to see more model pics. Thanks for posting yours, Witt.

Duckie.
 
I did not cover with any type of clear coat. I think that will be soon to come. I have only built a handfull of models ever, so every time I build one, I try and do something different or use a new technique. I do have a new airbrush, but I am currently away from home at work over 70 hours a week and I have two little ones to look after, so I just do not have the time to really bust it out and learn the ropes.... soon though...

I do actually have microsale and used it on the P-51.... and the front of the P-40...

I will have to get back to everyone when I get to that phase of adding the layers of clear.... I will have to post a few more I have done ...

FYI, All those were spray painted out of spray bottle, and hand painted on the undersides...
 
Here's one that I built several years ago.... It needs repaired from being moved around so much..

Interesting trick I picked up on this one... .the splotchy camo on the body was done with a Q-Tip....
 
Wittpilot said:
I did not cover with any type of clear coat. I think that will be soon to come. I have only built a handfull of models ever, so every time I build one, I try and do something different or use a new technique. I do have a new airbrush, but I am currently away from home at work over 70 hours a week and I have two little ones to look after, so I just do not have the time to really bust it out and learn the ropes.... soon though...

I do actually have microsale and used it on the P-51.... and the front of the P-40...

I will have to get back to everyone when I get to that phase of adding the layers of clear.... I will have to post a few more I have done ...

FYI, All those were spray painted out of spray bottle, and hand painted on the undersides...
Click to expand...

Witt, a clear gloss coat is not needed if you use a gloss paint. Matte paints dry with tiny microscopic ridges that keep light from reflecting from the surface, ergo the surface is not smooth. Thus any water slide decals used will adhere to the raised areas and silver in the recessed areas of the paint.

Do use the gloss clear coat next time before applying decals, you will be amazed how much easier they are to manipulate into position too.

Your paint is already great, the clear coats will make them stand out. FWIW, I also shoot a sealant coat of gloss before any clear semi-gloss or matte finishes

Here you go Duckie, the east wall, WW I models are 1/48 except the Eindecker, which is 1/72, all others are 1/72.

Caz
 
Cazzie said:
Here you go Duckie, the east wall, WW I models are 1/48 except the Eindecker, which is 1/72, all others are 1/72.

Caz
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Oustanding, Caz! :salute: I'll throw a couple of mine a little later on tonight. Love the trophie room/wall.

Duckie
 
I use Solvaset with my decals, they lie right down on the moldings and the detailed castings and other uneven surfaces. Just put some water on the model, lay down the decal, & decide beforehand exactly where it needs to go. Put the decal back in the cup of water while you dry the area for the decal, put the decal back on after shaking off as much water as you can, blot it down and press out the water with an absorbent cloth, let it dry for a minute to make sure it sticks, then brush on some solvaset. Don't mess with it after that!! No matter how melted or crinkly it looks, just don't touch it!! You might want to experiment first with some extra decals and a piece of model to watch the process and decide what works best for you. After it dries, they really look painted on - except for the extra cellulose material on the edge of the decal that the decal is printed on. A coating of gloss after applying decals gets rid of the cellulose edges.
 
As promised, Caz. The 190 is in the 1st case. All are 1/48th scale except the P-51B and the F-5E.

I also use Solv-a-set on decals after trimming them as close as I dare with a fresh X-Acto blade. Place the decal sheet on a piece of plate glass to cut them without allowing the blade to penetrate through to the glass. The combo of a fresh blade and a hard cutting surface reduces the pucker of the cut edge.

I use a #1 sable brush to apply the decals after the surface of the model has been saturated with Solv-a-set. Also, only allow the decal to soak barely long enough to release from the backing paper. That way there is more pasting solution available and air bubbles are easier to squeegie. Use the #1 brush to maneuver the decal into position. Blot the excess water and solution away with a cotton swab. Depending on the model and teh number of decals you're going to apply it can take me a coupke of sittings to get them all applied. I do use after market decals the majority of the time when they're available and make my own sometimes when they're not. Several good brand around and most good hobby shops carry a good supply.
 
Not seen it mentioned above but one of the best (and cheapest) forms of clear coat is Johnson & Johnson 'Future' clear acrylic floor coating (also known as 'Klear' in some countries). It is super levelling so you can brush it on with no brush marks and it is an excellent product (a bottle will last for years).

I use it before adding the decals and then apply a second coat once the decals are dry (about 24 hours) to seal the decals on. If you want a matt finish you can then apply a clear matt coat over the top.

Here's another tip......dunk any clear canopy/glass parts into a dish of 'Future', shake off any excess, then allow to dry. It will make the glass crystal clear and it will prevent the cement/CA from fogging up the clear plastic parts when you glue them on. If you want tinted glass add a tiny drop of food colouring to the 'Future' and you have a permanent tint for those jet fighter canopies.
 
Tako_Kichi said:
Not seen it mentioned above but one of the best (and cheapest) forms of clear coat is Johnson & Johnson 'Future' clear acrylic floor coating (also known as 'Klear' in some countries). It is super levelling so you can brush it on with no brush marks and it is an excellent product (a bottle will last for years).

I use it before adding the decals and then apply a second coat once the decals are dry (about 24 hours) to seal the decals on. If you want a matt finish you can then apply a clear matt coat over the top.

Here's another tip......dunk any clear canopy/glass parts into a dish of 'Future', shake off any excess, then allow to dry. It will make the glass crystal clear and it will prevent the cement/CA from fogging up the clear plastic parts when you glue them on. If you want tinted glass add a tiny drop of food colouring to the 'Future' and you have a permanent tint for those jet fighter canopies.
Click to expand...

Tako, I have taken this up with lots of people, use Future (Klear) only on clear parts, never as a gloss coat. Sure, the stuff is dead slick and glossy, but think about it for a minute. Future is only a temporary coating for floors, it is thin, it is very fragile, it will crinkle cold paints like enamel and latex. I am telling you up front Witt, never use Future for a gloss coat, use a good commercial acrylic or enamel gloss meant for styrene. It does not have to be model paint, just make sure it is safe for plastic. Lacquers are not, they are hot and will melt styrene if shot too heavy.

I have been building plastic models since 1958, so I had better know something right.

Nice shots Duckie. That is only the south end of the east wall. And the awards are only from 2000 forward, all older awards are boxed. If I get any time today, maybe I'll give all a walk around. I have over 250 completed models, have sold somewhere up to 50, done a dozen or so on commission. But why brow beat, I am no longer in the business. Just stopped cold turkey in May 2008. Got burned out I guess, that and the ever increasing cost of plastic and material. And the Chi-Coms taking over molding of everything and getting nothing right! It just got to be more stress than I allow myself to live with.

Caz
 
Fantastic tips everybody... It'd be nice if we could just keep this thread a constant here and add to it a bit overtime... I will make my next post in the "Other Hobbies" forum....I know many of us build plastic models so we can continue to post our newest additions. Plus, I know a lot of us dabble in the die casat side of things as well.

Since we are the topic of decals, how long would you guys say is the average dip time in water? I always did somewhere in the range of 7 seconds.....

-witt
 
Cazzie said:
Tako, I have taken this up with lots of people, use Future (Klear) only on clear parts, never as a gloss coat. Sure, the stuff is dead slick and glossy, but think about it for a minute. Future is only a temporary coating for floors, it is thin, it is very fragile, it will crinkle cold paints like enamel and latex. I am telling you up front Witt, never use Future for a gloss coat, use a good commercial acrylic or enamel gloss meant for styrene. It does not have to be model paint, just make sure it is safe for plastic. Lacquers are not, they are hot and will melt styrene if shot too heavy.
Click to expand...
I have never used Future over enamel or latex as I paint with dollar store acrylics which dry 'flat'. I am not building to show quality, I just build for fun and to give me something to do as I am stuck at home 24/7.
 
Wittpilot said:
Since we are the topic of decals, how long would you guys say is the average dip time in water? I always did somewhere in the range of 7 seconds.....
Click to expand...
A lot depends on the decal maker, the size of the decal and type and the age of the decals themselves (old decals tend to require more 'soak time').

I drop the decal into a dish of water and watch it curl up (they always curl and then relax) and then wait until it's about 75% uncurled before trying to apply it.

Wait too long and the decal will either float off the backing paper in the dish (a very bad thing!) or be tricky to apply especially if it is a long thin decal like the 'Don't Walk' lines on a Lancaster wing (don't ask me how I know this....GRRRR!!!!)

Taking the decal out of the water too soon can result in the decal tearing off the backing paper as it hasn't fully released yet or it will stick like superglue to the model as soon as it touches it and you can't then slide it into position. I like to put a bead of water onto the model and then slide the decal onto the bead so that I have a water film between the decal and the model and then you can easily slide it into position. A very light touch with a rolled up tissue then sucks all the water away from the decal (including the water underneath it) when you have it in position.

Tepid (i.e. barely warm) water is also much better at releasing the decals than cold water.
 
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