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Track ID

S

SSI01

Charter Member
I think I've arrived at the point where I may want to invest in a TrackID system that allows a more realistic view of a virtual cockpit. What I've seen of the system on various YouTube posts indicates it would be a definite plus for use in FSX, since VCs seem to be the norm in that sim. That's why I'm posting this inquiry on this forum. I have some questions I'd like to ask, sorry about the elementary nature of some of them but I have no familiarity with this subject.

-I've seen the hat-mounted sensors used by some individuals, and others use a headset-mounted device that resembles a boom mike. The headset-mounted device seems to be more highly-recommended due to its solid construction vice a spindly-looking thing that is mounted on a ball cap. Of course, its chief drawback is the headset must be used if the TID is also to be used. Not a problem for me since hearing loss has practically mandated use of a headset. Is there any recommendation anyone can make about either option?

-Assuming one picks up either the ball cap-mounted device, or the headset-mounted device - is that all that is required for this system to work? Or, do I have to install something on top of the monitor to read where the sensors are pointing when I am looking at the screen?

-I have a few USB ports available on the back of my machine into which I can plug the device, so computer access will not be a problem.

-Does this system work equally well in both FSX and FS9? Everything I've seen on YT so far shows it being used in FSX.

-What is the (ballpark) total cost of a decent system?

-Does the TID work in exterior views as well - in other words, can one look around the ramp while standing next to an aircraft?

Thanks in advance for whatever info anyone can supply!
 
TrackIR is way cool and requires a special camera mounted in front of the reflective targets. Recommend you visit them at: Naturalpoint.com

I use the TrackIR 5 and would never fly without it.
 
I use the headset mounted version. If I ever want to use the device without the head set, it is easy enough to make a head piece with no speakers that would still hold the TrackIR.
The cool thing is that the TrackIR can be used in conjunction with OPUS or EZDok as a POV device when viewing outside the cockpit.

One of the better sim related investments I've made. :encouragement:
 
SSI01 said:
The headset-mounted device seems to be more highly-recommended due to its solid construction vice a spindly-looking thing that is mounted on a ball cap
Click to expand...

You have that backwards - the biggest criticism of TrackIR is that the 'track clip pro' is extraordinarily fragile and usually needs to be repaired with Araldite or sticky tape. The hat clip is made of spring steel and will last forever. It's also wireless by virtue of being a passive (reflective) target. The hat clip works great as long as you are careful with the lighting conditions. I would start there and only pay the extra for the active target if you decide you really need it.
 
Another alternative is to make your own - I did this, it's easy if you have a tiny bit of soldering expertise and costs very little. I used the guidance on the Freetrack website to make a 3 point cap.
http://www.free-track.net/english/freetrack/qu-est-ce-que-c-est.php
I use the free Facetracknoir software http://facetracknoir.sourceforge.net/home/default.htm

I bought the webcam off eBay for £5 (it does need to have a good framerate). After a bit of trial and error, it worked perfectly and has transformed the realism in the vc.
 
Thanks for all the info. This is exactly what I was looking for. I saw some information about a "fast" camera. We have one here however it was made for monitors that were deeper front to back, I'm using a flat-screen that requires a new mount and, therefore, a new camera, something newer and a little faster.
 
"Faster" relates to FPS, I presume?
Click to expand...

Faster to react is probably a better way to describe it though it all comes down to the speed at which things happen if that makes sense. I had TIR4 some years ago which seemed adequate enough for me though I let it go due to lack of use. Years later and wishing I hadn't been quite so rash.. I bought TIR5 (which I still rarely use). TIR5 has a greater resolution sensor which does tend to speed things up a little. On the downside.. it's also more difficult to keep it steady (trying to flick a switch in a moving cockpit can be extremely frustrating) but you can tune the speeds to your own liking with the software provided.

ATB
DaveB:)
 
My best purchase regarding immersion was getting a TIR 5. I have experimented some with a DIY solution (FaceTrack and DIY tracker) but I enjoyed the no hassle setup of TIR. I'm using the reflective clip solution as it works perfectly well for my conditions. Run to get one, I would say! :)
 
Yup.. TIR5 is blissfully Plug'n'play in the true sense and that's always welcome:encouragement:

ATB
DaveB:)
 
Many thanks to the information provided by SOH members Naismith and Dangerous Beans, I opted to buy the TrackHat Clip. Here is a great youtube video that reviews it. A little pricey coming from the UK, but infinitely better quality than the one that Natural Point sells....:encouragement: NC




 
The Track Hat Clip is certainly a viable alternative to the Track Clip Pro and half the price. Should my TCPro ever lose the will to continue.. I know what I'll replace it with;)

ATB
DaveB:)
 
Get the Track Hat Clip ! The Track IR track clip is a flimsy piece of junk ! Sometimes they don't even survive shipping. The Track Hat Clip is rock solid! Well worth the price. I replaced the Track Clip Pro twice. I don't expect to ever have to replace the Trackhat clip !
Sue
 
I use the hat clip and have it attached to the top of my headset so I do not need to wear a hat.

Someone up thread mentioned the possibility of having difficulty operating switches, etc if the sensitivity is too high.
Simple solution....Assign two buttons on your stick/throttle or key combo to PAUSE TIR (it is a toggle) and one to
CENTER TIR.

When I need to operate a switch/button or lean in and read a gauge I hit the PAUSE button. If I need to look beyond
the current field of view, up/down/left or right, I simply look in the OPPOSITE direction and hit the CENTER button.
Then I can look further in the other direction. After that I just look forward and hit the CENTER again.
Using those two buttons becomes second nature in a short time.

The only issues I have ever encountered have been during the summer months in late afternoon the sun shines
in and illuminates the room behind me and the reflections off the hardware on my roll-top desk cause it to go crazy.
At those times I just have to draw the shades :)

Paul
 
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