Just as point(s) of clarification:
The length of a speaker cable being over (or under) 6 feet wouldn't necessarily have anything to do with how likely it is to cause (or suffer) RF interference. Signals are propagated in a certain frequency range ("band"); wavelength is a function of frequency. Antennas physical attributes (number/type elements and their arrangement/dimensions) are what makes them good (or bad) at transmitting/receiving a given frequency. For example, I seem to recall that FM radio antennas are 1/4 FM wavelength @ 33 inches long (I didn't check, I could be wrong...haven't been in school for about 27 years now *lol*). Anyway, the point is that any wire, of almost any length, can act as an 'antenna'...it will be most sensitive to frequencies having wavelengths at or in multiples/fractions of it's length.
These days, with most everything operating at higer and higher frequencies, even short pieces of cable/wires can pick up interference. Also, some devices (like some cordless phones) actually *rely* on their base unit's telephone cord as an antenna for the cordless units. If you were to put a ferrite core on this cable, it would likely cause problems with these phones.
So, while ferrite cores can solve lots of problems with interference, they should be used carefully, not just snapped on every cable in sight
Also, unless I'm mistaken, there is technically no such thing as an "unshielded USB cable". I do realize that unshielded USB cables are not uncommon in reality, of course - what I'm saying is that (I believe) shielded cables are part of the actual USB specs. If a cable is made to spec, it will be shielded. You can buy cheap junk just about anywhere, and unfortunately there's no 'law' that says they cannot make/sell unshielded cables. But, proper USB cables are always shielded.
USB is one of the most widely abused specs ever to exist. If I had a dime for every USB device I've seen that somehow *didn't* meet the specs, I'd be wealthy. Some things I seem to recall:
- Technically, there's no such thing as a "USB extension cable" (Yes, I know you can buy them everywhere; but I do believe they were expressly forbidden in the USB 1.1 spec).
- Anything (read: "external hard disk USB connectors") that relies on a "Y" or 'splitter' type USB cable to get sufficient current from a USB port (even USB 2.0) is technically not compliant with the specs. Not only do these 'splitters' contradict the specs, but also the specs say (IIRC) that any single USB device is not supposed to draw over 500mA of current - and *all* USB 2.0 connectors are supposed to be capable of providing 500mA to a connected load.
This means that, if a device requires one of these 'splitters' to work properly, then either your USB ports or your external drive (or both) is not compliant with the USB spec (I believe).
- *NEVER* use a USB device to control an inductive load. Relays, solenoids, mechanical counters...any type of electromagnetic device generally constitues an inductive load.
These are only some of my "list of most misunderstood USB things"; there are lots of others. Basically, it all boils down to "Just because you can buy something that plugs into a USB port does NOT mean it is a properly designed, spec-compliant USB device".
Hope this is helpful.