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  • Please see the most recent updates in the "Where did the .com name go?" thread. Posts number 16 and 17.

    Post 16 Update

    Post 17 Warning

ELCO PTboat, pilotable, FREE

Thanks for this Chuck; hope you are again feeling mighty, or at least more better. Looking forward to trying these later; for now I've just had a quick look.

Quick question: If I decide to enable WEAPONS, do I need to disable LIGHTS?

cs

You shouldnt need to cs. You can set weapons up as effects rather than lights.
 
Lights

cs,
I, me, and myself, do comment out ('//') the regular 'lights' section, but have found that FSX will only use the 1st instance of 'Lights' listed in aircraft.cfg. So 'yes' (to be formal) and 'no' (as the 2nd instace of 'Lights' is not 'seen' by FSX engine). Take your plick. Funny how details like this reveal the 'inner workings' of the sim.

As far as weapons effects go I did not 'filter' or sort them. These are by Irwin Welker. I just put the whole thing 'as is' and tap 'L' key on/off quicky to enable the 'dept charge' (when moving cruise speed-look behind you). At the same time it produces an explosion aprox 5 miles ahead of you, too. Just fun anyway. The 'O' key (strobe) will fire a forward facing gun, but did not place into proper position (forgot, sorry). Cheers.
Chuck B
Napamule
 
Weapons

ELKO PT Boat: March 8, 2013

Here are some 'enhancements' for the ELKO. The 2 cnt pt lines add some more handling on turns, etc plus it aids the 'wake/spray' effects that you use.

The weapons are just for fun. I left the lights functional with only addition of a wing gun which requires you to use 'O' (oh) key which is 'strobe' key to fire. Then I used the (smoke) section for Torpedo hit, Shell hit, and Dept Charge hit/explosion(s). Use one (smokesystem) and comment the other 2 or it will not work ass intended (pun intended-ha). This was a 'quickie' edit so it may not be 'perfect'. So sue me (ha).

I also include 2 meathods (pictures) showing 2 ways to set your 'range' for getting more accuracy for your torpedo explosion.

And please slow (or at least cut the throttle for 2 seconds) start turn, then 'punch it' (full throttle) to complete your turn. You can use the flaps to slow down quick (also aids in stoping to '0 kts'). At full speed a turn without you slowing (or cutting throttle) WILL make boat tip over (dah) as in 'real'. And the same goes for quickly changing direction (on turns)-cut throttle, use the rudder, and hit full throttle to complete. Simple dimple. Enjoy.

Chuck B
Napamule
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

(cnt pts) add these 2 lines:
point.8=4, 12.00, -4.600, -0.800, 14500, 0, 0.600, 40.0, 0.100, 4.5, 1.000, 0.000, 0.000, 4.000
point.9=4, 12.00, 4.600, -0.800, 14500, 0, 0.600, 40.0, 0.100, 4.5, 1.000, 0.000, 0.000, 4.000

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[LIGHTS] //---Light 4 is 'wing guns' - use 'O' (strobe) to fire ----
//Types: 1=beacon, 2=strobe, 3=navigation, 4=cockpit, 5=landing, 6=taxi, 7=recognition, 8=wing, 9=logo, 10=cabin
light.0=3, -39.00, 0.00, 6.57, fx_navwhih
light.1=3, -5.24, 0.00, 18.09, fx_navwhih
light.2=3, 6.84, 4.40, 8.64, fx_navgre
light.3=3, 6.84, -4.33, 8.64, fx_navred
light.4=2, 2.20, 4.40, 13.00, fx_Wing_Guns //use 'O' (strobe) to 'fire'
//

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[SMOKESYSTEM] //--------------TORPEDO + EXPLOSION ------------------
////----------- Press "I" to activate --------------------------------
smoke.0= 15000.0, 0.0, 10.0, fx_torpedo, //explosion time delayed-(3 miles)
//

//[SMOKESYSTEM] //--------------SHELL HIT -------------------------------------
////----------- Press "I" to activate --------------------------------
//smoke.0= -7610.0, 0.0, 10.0, fx_ShellHit, //Aprox 1 1/2 miles to rear
//

//[SMOKESYSTEM] //--- DEPT CHARGE -- to rear ----------------------------
////----------- Press "I" to activate --------------------------------
//smoke.0= -2250.0, -1.0, 10.0, fx_Wasserbombe, // depth charge
//smoke.1= -2320.0, 0.0, 20.0, fx_Wasserbombe, // depth charge
//smoke.2= -2400.0, 2.0, 30.0, fx_Wasserbombe, // depth charge
//smoke.3= -2480.0, -3.0, 20.0, fx_Wasserbombe, // depth charge
//smoke.4= -2700.0, 4.0, 10.0, fx_gndexpl_l, // U-boat hit
//smoke.5= -2710.0, 0.0, 10.0, fx_ShellHit,
//
 
Well, it took forever, it seems, but, I'm doggone close to what I wanted to do.
With a little practice, I can now actually "Back and Fill" this baby into a slip, or, nose in and back out.
Forward idles at ~8knots, Reverse min speed is ~3 knots.

From either Fwd or Rev, Shifting into "Neutral" feathers the props and kills the engines, so only the drag of the props reduces directional momentum.
Neutral is the only Gear selection that needs a mouse click to activate, but, once in Neutral, you need to select Forward or Reverse to Start the engines again.
Feathering the Props, to achieve neutral, would allow runaway engine RPM, with no way to control it except kill the engines.
Forward and Reverse will work with a controller that is capable of negative throttle positions(FSUIPC) or keyboard F1/2/3/4 inputs.
I don't have a controller that has reverse, so, the Reverse Gear click code is the same as keying single presses of F1(cut)...F2(decrease)...F3(Increase small). Going to Fwd from Reverse only requires Controller Fwd or the F1 key.

If the engines are dead; Shifting into "Forward" sets the pitch to min, and starts all engines simultaneously. Once the engines get above 500rpm they are governed and pitch goes to max.
Same for going from "Neutral" to Reverse. There are no individual Starters. That just gave me the old caught in a tornado effect when an outboard engine was started alone.

If the engines are running, Throttling/Shifting into Forward or Reverse acts close to the RW.
Except, clicking my Gear Selector Gauge Cuts the throttle to idle for FWD, and sets min Reverse throttle for REV, regardless of controller position. The instant you move your controller it goes to the controller's position.
Being a RW boater{2750 Ciera Sunbridge and F32 Trojan (WIP on cradles)}, "idling" the engines before engaging/changing gears is ingrained.

Unfortunately, the Throttle/Tranny and Engine's gauges only work properly with my FDE.
I tried to make 'em universal. No Dice. But, if you guys wanna use another FDE, I can help with RPM and MP calibrations.

I haven't yet figured out how to make the engine sound's "Idle" in neutral. I've done a few custom sounds with Doug Dawsons Sound gauge, so, a sound suite will be the next thing I attack.

I'm about ready to package up the panels(Weapons Controls?, see below)
So far, the panels are for 16:9/10 Monitors, and I made bitmaps and panel.cfgs for 4:3 monitors.
The Anchor Light, Stern lights, and Nav Lights(Bright/Dim) now have seperate control switches.
It has an Anchor Haul/Set Control, but, you must be dead in the water when the Anchor is "Set" or when "Hauled" any momentum captured by "FREEZE_LATITUDE_LONGITUDE_TOGGLE" is cumulative.
Hauling the anchor will resume the captured momentum at an accelerated rate.
I don't know enough about the SDK GPS variables to capture the position and X-Y-Z acceleration data and set them to the "Anchored" position with zero acceleration...Yet...

As for Weapons Controls Using [LIGHTS], I have Taxi, Logo, and Cabin still free.
I can make a gauge with "Fire" buttons for it if you folks want them.
What "Labels" would you like? "Fore 50"? "Port Forward Tube"? lemme know.

I made new effects for a Smoke Screen, Anchor, and Stern lights.
Smoke Screen? I didn't know squat about making effects, but, with the help of the SDK Effects tool, I made a big one! Ya gotta be movin' at 15knots or better to keep ahead of it...Don

More Teasers:

All Stop
View attachment 82626

Grey Panel
View attachment 82627

Green Panel showing some "Roll"
View attachment 82628

My attempt at a Smoke Screen
View attachment 82629
 
This looks wonderful, amazing, and super-deluxe! I keep flipping between this page and page #1 of the thread, comparing the precursor to this model that you have transformed. I'm going to stop messing around with the one I've got (I keep breaking it and fixing it and breaking it again - stumbling blindly around inside the cfg and air files) and wait (patiently) for yours to become available. Thanks in advance.
 
fxsttcb,
Where did you get the 'roll'? Just wondering. You sure got it 'together' (and puts me to shame). Excellent work on panel. Over my head with the gauges. In fact, it's just too much for me and I would no doubt just use another panel (sorry).

Is your throttle gauge new? I seem to recall the Kevlacat fishing boat (By Deane Robson-for FS2002) had some sort of shift of 'gears' (forward/reverse) and it worked good. ((('To go FWD push "Ctrl+ F1" and then "F4": to reverse push "Ctrl+ F4" and then "F4"))). Aparently some simmers never did 'figure' this one (key combos) out and went without any gear shifting. They missed the boat (hehe).
Chuck B
Napamule
PS: CurlSnout,
The reason MIGHT be because this thread has both the ELCO and the Schnellboot in here. You must keep them apart as the FDE for one will not work for the other. Sort of the 'Ides Of March' is working on this thread-and you're IT! (just kidding).
 
Chuck, The screenie with that much roll is from an earlier FDE. I used AAM v2 to set CLdr(Roll Moment-Rudder), and CYdr(Side Force-Rudder), to tune that.
I can get that much roll working pretty good at lower speeds, but, with anywhere near full rudder, and within a few knots of top speed, it imparts way too much drag.
That added drag drops the boat off plane, and digs the bow in, creating even more drag. Reducing that Yaw derived drag, only serves to make it slide to the side more, loosening the already wide turns.
I'm only using a couple of degrees of roll now. PT Boats did roll a bit, but, not a whole lot. Finding out exactly how much has proven pretty tough. Gonna hafta watch some McHale's Navy reruns!
Right now, I'm fooling with Yaw's Side Slip forces to try and line the model up better in the turns, without adding drag. Then maybe I can figure out a balance of side slip vs roll.

My panel is pretty functional. The gauges are all brand new. Most are completely from scratch. A lot of the bitmaps are hand painted and/or modded from screenshots I took on the net. GIMP, PaintDotNet, and MSPaint are the tools.

The Throttle/Gear selector was tough. Getting the Gear knobs to follow Controller and Keyboard inputs without creating a code looping condition gave me a headache! :sleep:
'twas worth it though. Once Forward or Reverse is selected, the engines are running, and your controller or keyboard is all that is necessary to drive it...Don
 
Hi all
I'm more a little confused (don't take much) now. There's so much going on in here, I don't know what's current.

is there a currently working boat to download?
 
The boat is not. I've been delinquent-work, too many projects competing for to little attention. I will, before the end of the day set up the boats on mediafire and post the link. To this end , I promise the pound of flesh nearest your heart.
 
I think ( at this point that Lazarus came up with the only idea that may work for roll.. You need to adjust the suspension in the contacts area of the config file. Thats what works on the schnellboot ( all three or four degrees of it ) but its also a natural roll to the outside of the turn. I dont know if you can set the suspension up to roll it to theinside, but i'd place bets you can..
 
I think I'm doing the same thing. 6 contact points for the floats. 1 fore, 1 aft on CL, 0.15(ft) lower than the 4 outboard floats. That gave a pleasant surprise too! It gives a slight rolling motion to it.
The touch of roll that I added in the *.air file keeps it from rolling outside on turns. Very slightly to the inside.
No matter what I've tried, the yaw drag still slows it down enough to be an annoyance.

I flipped the Rudder Sensitivity curve, from bell to valley, so it is easier to do high speed low rate turns. Seems to work better for me.

Any ideas on how to increase the rudder control "only" at low(<7 knots) speed? Water Rudder?
That may take auto engagement only at low speed, so, it doesn't interfere with higher speed turns. Off to try that...Don
 
yes.. I found for myself that changes in the airfile had very little or no effect whatsover except for Yaw, mach drag, and mach tuck ( 1101, 154a, & 430 ). unfirtunately, i became quite ill and just didnt have the time to keep delving into it.

OH, and want a hoot?? I set the bottom of the boat up to act as a wing. You can increase the lift of that wing, move the center of lift forward, and reduce ground effects to pull the nose of the boat out of the water on cue at the exact place it needs to come out of the water..
 
Any ideas on how to increase the rudder control "only" at low(<7 knots) speed? Water Rudder?
That may take auto engagement only at low speed, so, it doesn't interfere with higher speed turns. Off to try that...Don

let me know how that staggered height between floats works for you..
Now for the not so easy to believe bits.. :( someone always slams me when i share stuff ive directly experimented on.. ) 2 major factors you have to keep in mind with FSX..
1. there is no water
2. there is no air.
there are only numbers representing a quantity and viscosity of a fluid. So as far as a rudder goes on a boat, it will have some effect at higher speeds but unless you really tweak the rudder efficiency table ( seven positions only and thats the problem ) the rudder ( main ) has no effect whatsoever at 7knts. Water rudders?? I have one in the schnellboot fde. its fairly useless, and on my machine poressing the water rudder button all day didnt do a thing.. still, i left it in for good measure.
Your real rudders ( yes, plural ) are your floats. Jeez, maybe i should PM this so i dont spoil everybodies fantasies. i know it spoiled mine, but, oh well..
You have six elongated keels running down the sides of the hull, AND, they rotate. Perhaps only ten degrees, perhaps 20 but they rotate. Each of those has a keel. Those keels are your rudders. Now, your going to have to play a bit and settle in for an intelectual journey into the bizaar. Really it gets weird..
the entry you need to work with in the config file is the contacts entry, the sub entries for that are 7, 8, 9, and 10. Specifically Each of those is going to have to be balanced to each other one. The most important that your looking for ( the key ) is sub entry 10 ( dampening and water rudder effectiveness ). Although floats are not water rudders per se, since they turn, FSX sees them as water rudders and will calculate them in accordingly. increasing the value of subentry 10 will increase their effectiveness, decreasing that value will make the boat a bit more sloggish. Too low and you'll roll over on your back.
If you can afford it, I highly recommend making a printout of the PT's three view, then use a ruler divided into 16ths or MM's to get the correct scale for the drawing.
Now it gets weird..
Remember that you have two waterlines on this boat. the first is located appriox. one half the way from the bottom of the keel to the top of the deck. the second is where the floats need to be, just below the top of the red paint at the center of the boat. Since the deck is the only thing flat, measure the fsx waterline ( in the middle ) from the deck down. That should also mark the FSX reference datum point, but for that your gonna have to double check with another trick. In the openeing screens selection window, place a piece of paper over the image of the rotating boat, and draw an X from each of the top corners to the bottom corners. Wherever that X meets in the middle on the boat, is the reference datum position that was put there by the modeler.. mark that point on your thre view and adjust your reference datum point in the config file away from that point, so that it rests either at the absolute center of the boat, or at the very front of the boat below the tip of the bow.
Once you have your reference datum position calculated, make all your distance measurments from that point, except for the static CG height which is measured from the bottom of the keel to the reference datum point.
I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it really isnt. and it will give you exact placement of those floats so that you can proceed to change their dynamics with confidence. Just make sure that the static CG is higher than the floats and you should be ok.. And remember, the higher the static CG, the less stable the boat becomes ( kinda like a monster truck ).
And i do apologize for what seems to be a tome. I'm afraid i'm still running a very high fever and tending to babble a lot..
Pam

PS:: ( and this is where it gets tricky and i apologize for forgetting to add it ) if you lower the CG of the boat you must also lower the static CG height. where it gets tricky is that the static CG height, cannot be lower than the floats, and therefore, the cg cannot be lower than the floats. in aboat like the PT where the engines are liocated below the waterline (the painted waterline ) and weighing in at a combined six thousand pounds, its real tempting to give it a very low CG. But dont do it.. keep the cg and static CG above the painted waterline.
 
let me know how that staggered height between floats works for you..
Now for the not so easy to believe bits.. :( someone always slams me when i share stuff ive directly experimented on.. ) 2 major factors you have to keep in mind with FSX..
1. there is no water
2. there is no air.
there are only numbers representing a quantity and viscosity of a fluid. So as far as a rudder goes on a boat, it will have some effect at higher speeds but unless you really tweak the rudder efficiency table ( seven positions only and thats the problem ) the rudder ( main ) has no effect whatsoever at 7knts. Water rudders?? I have one in the schnellboot fde. its fairly useless, and on my machine

[...]


Wow PAM. This is an epic post. Never saw some the FDE dynamics better explained. I have to save this for a future reference.
My hat's off.

Cheers,
Mark
 
http://www.mediafire.com/?1ebry2b6df2m8s4


3 Elco boats, Sboot, 2 OSA I's. These still have the first FDE versions, so you'll have to find the latest revisions. Eyepoints are off for the Sboot and OSA's. CTRL and or SHIFT + back arrow or forward arrow to adjust.

I don't know if I'm going to have more boats than helos installed, but I can say this.... I'm having a lot of fun in FSX now. I can't wait until I get Prepared for my B-day in may, from what I've been told and read the water acts like water, now that should make difference.
Thanks guys and lady:salute:
 
I don't know if I'm going to have more boats than helos installed, but I can say this.... I'm having a lot of fun in FSX now. I can't wait until I get Prepared for my B-day in may, from what I've been told and read the water acts like water, now that should make difference.
Thanks guys and lady:salute:

:::LOL:: Whats with us taurus's and our bloody big guns?? Will have to compare birthdays, maybe hold an online party.. Aerobatics with a shot of scotch ::lol:;

@Mark.
Thanks mark.. I was kinda at a place of disperity. My printers out of ink and it costs over a hundred dollars to fill it so i cant print out my blueprints :(, and I'm also so sick i still cant see straight, but i wanted to give the folks something they could use that was concrete to work from.. I wont say its the only way to do it, but its what ive done with every model since the beginning back in 2004. Only hopefully i'm a bit better at it now :).. At least the PT is in great hands, and i've got S-100 about 85% completed and the redwing about 90% with the blueprints printed thankfully.. They were the last my printer would do.. maybe by my birthday i'll be able to get more ink :).. that would be cool :)..
 
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