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  • Please see the most recent updates in the "Where did the .com name go?" thread. Posts number 16 and 17.

    Post 16 Update

    Post 17 Warning

"Loss Of Innocence,Will It Ever Be The Same"

No,but I like them and even contribute to a RR website.I build in 1/16th because the museum where they will end up like the larger scales.
 
Backyardflierfacade031.jpg
 
When the measurements are done it is time to start cutting in with the Xacto knife.I started with what I call the dining room window which is the largest on the back facade.
Keeping your xacto (new blade,change often) 90 degs to the surface cut into the foam board.I do this freehand and make a couple of passes until it is cut all the way through.At this stage I don't try to be too exact as the foamboard is soft and easily damaged.Put another piece of foam board behind the cutout and trace the perimeter of the window.Cut this piece out as well and line it up and glue it to the back creating a double thickness.This will allow for a secure surface for our window frame pieces and add a more realistic look to the thickness of the wall.When dry start fitting your frame pieces,do not glue for now but make a tight fit.I cut mine slightly oversize and fit and sand,fit and sand until they fit snugly .Get out a small square and adjust the foamboard until the frames fit 90deg to each other.
It is time consuming to do but I thank my lucky stars that I am only doing a plain outdoor facade and not your typical Victorian moldings that you would find on the inside.
 
My Victorian Row House.

After a lot of research the following measurements seem to be consistent with a typical North American Victorian row house.From the lower level floor to the upper level ceiling is about 21 feet 6 inches.
The top of the piece of cardboard at the bottom of the foam board represents the top of the exterior boardwalk.There are two rows of blocks to the top of the foundation,a 2" cap strip and 2"X10" joists to the lower level floor.From floor to window sill is 30"and from floor to ceiling is 10feet.I have allowed 18" between the ceiling to the top of the upper floor level for joists,plaster ceiling, sub-floor and floor.Then another 30" to the upper window sill and again 10 feet to the ceiling.(Victorian ceilings were high)
The upper rooms are 12 feet in width to their center lines ,the actual room size would be less due to studs,walls etc...The lower levels widths are 12 feet for the dining room and about 10 for the kitchen ,the rest is the 30" wide door and storage area,the overall width is about 30 feet.Above the door is the bathroom so that the run of the plumbing is consistent with the kitchen area.
The doors and windows are tall and narrow to allow for indoor/outdoor air circulation.
The external roof line has yet to be established but it is usually a little above the upper window.
Please advise me if you guys notice anything obviously wrong with the measurements.
 
This is a figure standing on the floor in an upstairs bedroom window.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________
 
This is boring stuff ,no doubt about it.It is one of those jobs that separates the men from the boys (or should I say wackos from the normals.)
wacko.gif
 
I love this pic!( I know only a modeler could get excited about bricks) Anyway,it gives you a great palette of brick colors to work with and the wall itself is so very interesting.
I can see an artist getting lost forever in this detail , being able to practice every technique in the book.It will surely be a case of knowing when to stop.By comparison modern brick walls are so very boring.
I don't yet have any idea of how to achieve that rough cement grout work look but I am working on it.I think my challenge will be to restrain myself and not to make my wall too old looking.
I love the way Andi builds a history into his brick walls but I wonder if that would be appropriate here.The row houses in my reference picture look fairly new in 1913 and the residents fairly well off ,judging by the way the lady with the dog is dressed and the fact that our early EAA type could even afford all the materials to build his airplane.
I can hardly wait to start the painting of this piece .It is as close to 2D picture painting that a 3D guy can get....
 
Working out the color scheme.
The window frame will be my favorite dark green color.(see my photobucket for an example)I have put on a light green base coat over the raw wood and over that the darker green.When I get to the weathering I will lightly sand the surface to get a wear and tear effect,two tone green and in places raw wood, which then could be washed a light gray.
I am looking for a neutral shade for the bricks and light beige,the first half brick from the top in the pic,seems to look good.There has been one watery coat applied at this stage.The full brick above has two watery coats.I like to start with the light shades and work to randomly darker them when using washes.The edges of the brick have been painted now so that any overlap of colors will be the green trim and not the brick.
This watercolor paper is great to work with as it does not swell when water is applied thus preserving the texture of the brick.
 
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