This morning we got up late (AK time) and brewed a pot of coffee. Then it was time for morning exercise... pulling 12 blades through on a cold Shvetsov- 9 for each of the cylinders and 3 extra just to make sure. The morning was a crisp 37 degrees and visibility was greater than 10 miles- we were laughing. Turn on the gas, a few strokes on the wobble pump, a couple of squirts of primer, battery, starter switch and then it was time to load the inertial. The characteristic windings upset a few Terns and then with a sputtering, clanking cacophony of connecting rods and still dry cylinders, the engine burst into life.
The runway at Icy Bay is bisected where the shed we parked beside was. Plenty of room to point her NE and lock the tailwheel. Make sure Pitot and Pumps are on and it was time to advance the throttle to 12kPa. Pull props back to keep her from above 2200 rpm and by the time you read all of this we were airborne. Tail wheel unlocked (to save the lamp battery and avoid the annoyance) and after clearing the pines at the end of the runway, and waving to a logger just pulling into the yard, we came hard 'round and followed the coastline west, turning off the fuel pump at 300m.
The salt marshes in AK are different from those in the Carolinas, they still undulate and sparkle, but these have a chill about them that has to be seen to be understood. Visibility was good and we trundled west at 1800 rpm and 8kPa.... We hugged the coastline, flew over some cabins about half way to Yakatatga, and soon enough we were paralleling the runway and heading off into the wild. How wild, I did not know quite yet...
The coast has long hammocky stretches just past Yakataga, where the salt water tries to freeze, unsuccessfully, but still holds enough visible chill to make one sip coffee with determination. We followed the Kaliakh River NW and soon the Gulf was out of sight. Nothing but wet mud and scrub as far as the eye could see, interrupted by the occasional sea oat.
We were flying at 300m, something I only do in the An-2, and sitting quite still, watching the marsh roll underneath us, when I noticed that there was a difference in the landscape. It was very bleak and very wet, sort of a grey cardigan color, with nothing growing. I sat up in interest and saw ice ahead. The Bering Glacier was making its introductions. In moments my world was white. Not linen white, but the bleak white that ice makes when it comprises of your entire world. I was sat there at 300m and couldn't take my eyes off the undulating landscape. It was as though I was adrift in a life boat and the rough sea was all around me. Glaciers only seen from FL 310 are pretty white sprays on the world. At 300m they are a three dimensional carpet of waves and troughs undulating in a serpentine, enthralling, fascinating and captivating fashion. It is hard to describe how alive the ice is, how much it forces itself into your world, taking away comfort and forcing you to look, in the same fashion as disasters across the world captivate their audiences. I could not tell where ice started and sky stopped, and trying to concentrate on the Russian attitude indicator with its separate axis depictions, was an education in forced learning. There was a sense of being alive, and the danger of knowing that one of these fascinating sculptures, would slice through my Anushka and I with disdain if I wavered in my attention. What I did not know was the ice was rising! I saw there was suddenly sharp detail flashing below me and snatched my yoke into my stomach just in time to feel ground effect. With the burst of adrenaline still coursing through my veins, I turned on my radar altimeter and set 200m for the alert tone. I would have flown into the ice in the next moments, and I did not want to risk that again!
There's a point half way, clearly shown on the sectional, where the Glacier turns mud colored... and sure enough Orbx has modeled this as well. Suddenly I had the feeling I was running in one of those survival mud marathons, except my Anushka moved much more sprightly that I. I saw rivers of mud that must have been moving a century or millennium ago. There they were frozen in time and yet I could see the enormous crushing momentum they once contained. I was streaking over the rise and fall of mud crevasses, and then suddenly plunged into white once more. The Glacier was not done with my An-2 yet. The undulations began their hypnotic rhythm and I forced myself to look to the right where the ridgeline with Mt. Stellar gave me some sense of position. I could, by concentrating on them, remind myself of who I was, and what I was doing. It was a way to cling to the present in the icy space of nothing and eternity.
Bering Lake was lovely in the sunlight. So lovely, that I failed to notice the Ragged Mountains ahead, instead thinking of coming hack to fly-fish here one day. Despite my fascination with what Orbx had created for me, the mountains asserted their presence. Time to trade airspeed for altitude. I pushed the throttle forward to 12kPa and moved the prop ahead to 2100 rpm. We clawed upwards with the cowl flap open, trying to dissipate the heat we were suddenly generating. The VSI rose and the landscape below stopped trying to rise up and smite me. Despite the occasional Pine reaching towards my belly, we continued upwards and following the rising contour of a fortuitous valley flashed over the peak with meters to spare.
Suddenly we were high enough, almost too high, with descent necessary, and shock cooling to be avoided! Props back to 1800 rpm and throttle gradually back to 6kPh in increments of 1 kPh every 2 minutes.... and we were perched high atop the sky (ok perhaps it was only 1200M) and had the Copper River ahead. The sky, the water and perhaps the mineral content of the landscape all conspired to turn the world a shade of brown. I imagined this part of the world at sunset, and the coppery possibility was definitely distinct. We continue our gentle descent and with a start I realized that I was perfectly positioned for a left downwind into Smith!
In Alaska (or I should say Orbx's Alaska, as I have yet to visit in person) I am more surprised by the presence of airports (and corresponding civilization) than anywhere else in the world. One moment, I am in desolate wilderness, untouched for a thousand years, and the very next I can see a rusty Ford F-250 throwing up a dust plume..... staggeringly surprising. The sense of speed in the An-2 is quite something to experience. Almost everything I fly is faster than my Anushka, yet the feeling of motion and flight over terrain at 300M is unmatched for its visceral transmittal. In her I am faster that I ever am at M .86 on a NAT track.
The 6kPh did its work and we were down to 300m and midfield. We had announced our arrival on Unicom, but as I have gotten used to in this part of the world, there was no answer. It was time to lock the tail wheel and turn on the fuel pump. We continued in the pattern, dropping 1 notch of flap as we slowed through 140 kph. Then it was left base and two notches, and down to 110kph and 200m. Soon we were turning final, with the wide snout of my old girl blocking out all forward view. I leaned left to see the edge of the runway and line up dropping the third notch (15 degrees), and pulling off some throttle to slow her through 100kph. As she slipped earthward I began the long pull to hold her off, and as runway flashed below my side window, I kept pulling. Alex M has done such a superlative job with the FDE that I knew I could fly half way down the runway at 3m and only when I pulled off all the throttle would she settle down onto her wheels. I held her off long enough to make sure the taxi was short and then let her squeak onto the asphalt. With the still conditions, there was not much leg-work and she tracked straight until she was slow enough for me to unlock the tailwheel and turn off.
Cowl and shutter full open and she trundled towards the FBO. 3 guys had come out to see this visitor from a foreign place. In the land of Beavers and Super Cubs, the An-2 was an anachronism and attracts curiosity wherever she goes. A burst of throttle and a pull of the hand brake and we pivoted to come to rest by the gaggle. I like to run her fully out of gas so I shut off the gas cock and let her run out. As she did I pulled mixture and prop and opened the throttle wide. My clanking world was shattered by Alaskan silence. I closed both the cowl and the oil shutter to retain heat as long as possible. Working my way through the many switches after shutting off the battery first was a familiar routine of thumps and thuds, and then the questions began.... "Hey! What sort of contraption is this?"
I smiled and got out to meet my new friends and stretch my legs..... THANKS YO YO, SP-AOO is lovely!
C