I am working on an old He 115 with Shessy and
There is a first time for everything!
Here is an example of the layer work I was talking about...
I took the original, repeated the mapping on a layer over it... with just the basic camouflage colors...
then, a next layer with the insignia... the nicht bettreten stencils.. gasoline triangles, etc.
yet another layer with the basic shadings (light and dark), and general shine...
Atop this, a layer with panel lines, (actually, it was done first.. and then put the shadings sandwiched in-between...
that is the beauty of working in layers... each transparency can be move up or down from the basic texture to suit
the best appearance.. YOU DO HAVE TO KEEP A CERTAIN ORDER... like panel lines go atop.. insignia... weathering
atop that... etc. [just common sense... lines show through insignia... weathering goes atop insignia... otherwise you
get an immaculate roundel on a weathered bird... get the picture?
In the end.... I use as many layers as needed to obtain the desired effect... some of them remain so they can be used
on another livery for the aircraft in question.... like insignia and letterings, shines and shadings, and maybe basic colors,
when the particular paint scheme is pretty much the same... otherwise... a new layer must be created for the specific
other livery...
In the end, you blend the layers together for the final texture that goes on the model....like the one I am showing as
an example...
With time...and attention to detail, anyone can get a finish like this one... it just takes patience...and of course, an eye for getting what you
pictured in your mind's eye... try... no good... try something different... till you get what you're looking for...
no rocket science, really... just patient work and attention to detail....
then you throw the textures in the model and see how it shows...keeping the multilayer texture separated so as to make corrections...
[a line that should curve sooner or further on... a shadow that is not quite in the right place... details that show too nitid and need to be
subdued more, etc.
For instance... you do the rivets at normal transparency... and then play with the transparency so they end up in-scale,
just the right nitid shade, etc. One thing one wants to do is keeping scale in mind at all times... remembering that a
line for a 1mm plate gap in the actual model... is barely discernible in the model... some folks do panel lines that in scale
would have a gap between plates like 5 inches wide (then one wonders... what the f...k keeps this bird from falling apart, no?)
same thing with rivets.... make sure they are not the size of saucers... at a distance one hardly sees them... just shines and
shadows.... very subtle...
I can take you through the process with successive pics... (easiest way to show the process) but it will require making up
a tutorial... and ergo.. time! and am planning to produce some soon...
It would be best to do them to show a particular question some one or some people have...
I will put out some more examples very soon...
Just finished a weathered tailfin and the engine cowlings...
same method.... trying to obtain a realistic volumetric (cylinder like) play of shadings and light...
I think this type of shine is more effective than the computer generated alpha channels... because the alpha channel shines sometimes
fall in the wrong places... very uniform... and real life objects are not like that....